Soldering track joints
Here’s how I solder track joints.
First, for very dirty materials and to tin and clean my solder tip, I have a
I use a 60 tin, 40 lead solder.
It has activated rosin core of 2 to 3 percent and is a fine .031 inch
Track joint has to be clean, smooth and shiny at solder point.
Make sure track ends are square and clean.
Solder only flows and bonds to clean metal surfaces.
If the rail or joiner is old,
shows signs of corrosion or tarnish,
or you want a really fast joint flow….
brush on a little flux.
Make sure the tip is heavy enough, hot enough (this is a 700 degree tip),
To clean my tips I get them hot and dip them in a little cup of flux. The
Never file or scrape a tip.
The result is a clean and shiny tip. This is the same tip after cleaning and
Tin the tip and leave a small bead of solder in a small ball on the tip.
When soldering things near plastic, lay a wet sponge on the metal just
The sponges soak up heat, so it is necessary to have a powerful enough
The proper tip positioning places the blunt wet end of the tip as flat as
Make a quick touch to the tip and rail contact point to promote heat transfer
Apply solder to the joiner and the rail very close to the tip, with perhaps
This is the joint just after soldering and before cleaning with 100 percent
This is the same joint, no touch up, after cleaning with alcohol and a hard
This is a top view of the freshly cleaned joint.
Notice there is no damage at all to the “spikes” in the track. This is true
Joint is shiny, clean, and smooth. Cracks are filled but not to excess.
Just a minimal amount of solder should flow through to the inside. This makes
This is the way soldering was done on the used parts I bought!!
Gobs of solder, melted spikes, and even melted ties. This is way too much
The right joint is one I repaired by removing solder. I heated it to liquefy